Understanding Sublimation for Crafters

(And why it’s not just “fancy HTV”)

I’m going to break this down step-by-step and start right from the beginning.


🔥 What Is Sublimation?

“Sublimation” is the term used when something goes from a solid → to a gas → back to a solid, while skipping the liquid phase entirely.
(Think: ice turning into steam without becoming water first.)

In crafting, sublimation is the process of taking a design made with special sublimation ink (a solid), heating it until it turns into a gas, then using consistent pressure so that gas infuses into your item. As it cools down, the ink returns to a solid — now embedded into the material itself.

Only the ink transfers. Unlike Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV), where you end up with a separate vinyl layer melted into your fabric, sublimation becomes part of the item. It results in a more professional-looking, longer-lasting finish that doesn’t crack or peel over time.


⚠️ What It Works On (and Doesn’t)

Sublimation only works on light-coloured materials that are made of (or coated with) a high polyester content.

  • The less polyester, the more faded your design will look. That’s because there are fewer polyester molecules for the ink to bond to.
  • The darker the fabric, the less visible your design will be. Think of trying to colour yellow on blue fabric — you’ll get green. Sublimation doesn’t “cover” the colour underneath.

If your blank isn’t polyester (or has too low a percentage), it might be possible to add a special sublimation base layer or coating. Some examples:

  • Spray-on polyester coatings (for mugs, wood, canvas, etc.)
  • Special HTV sheets made for sublimation

Just keep in mind:
Your final project will only last as long as that base layer. It may crack, fade, or peel faster than a true polyester item.

🔍 Not every item is ideal for sublimation — and that’s okay.


The 3 Ways to Use Sublimation Designs

🖨️ 1. Printing with a Sublimation Printer

You can either:

  • Buy a printer made for sublimation
  • Convert a regular inkjet printer into one

🧠 What You Need to Know:

  • Choose a printer that uses ink tanks, not cartridges
  • Avoid printers that use thermal print heads (heat can trigger the ink too early)
  • Only convert printers that haven’t used regular ink (or you’ll need to fully flush the lines)

Once converted, that printer will only be used for sublimation — not for documents, photo printing, or print-and-cut sticker jobs.

You will also need:

  • Sublimation ink (regular inkjet ink won’t work)
  • Sublimation paper, or at minimum, paper that’s rated for high heat (like laser printer paper)

Since sublimation transfers only the ink:

  • Mirror your design
  • Print exactly what you want to show
  • No weeding required

📝 If you print using Design Space’s Print then Cut, be sure to cut away the black registration box or it will transfer with your design.

🎨 Printed designs will always look a little dull. The colours brighten up after pressing.

🖊️ 2. Infusible Pens & Markers

These pens are filled with sublimation ink. You use your machine’s Draw function to create your design on sublimation paper.

  • Still mirror your design
  • Still no weeding
  • Still requires heat and pressure to transfer

Think of this as hand-drawn sublimation.

📜 3. Infusible Ink Sheets

These are pre-printed sheets of sublimation ink that you can cut and weed like vinyl — but they’re not vinyl.

  • You cut your design with your machine
  • You weed away the excess (anything left will transfer)
  • Only the ink transfers — not the sheet or any vinyl layer

🎯 Even though you cut and weed them like HTV, the end result still feels like sublimation. Smooth, no extra layer.


♨️ Transferring the Design

The goal with sublimation is to trap the gas from the ink between the paper and your surface.

That means:

  • No air gaps
  • Even pressure across the full surface
  • Consistent heat for the full transfer time

This is why things like:

  • Heat presses
  • Mug presses
  • Teflon wraps
  • Sublimation shrink wrap

…are so helpful. They ensure full contact and even pressure.

❗ Unlike HTV, you don’t need to push harder. More pressure doesn’t equal better results. You want smooth, even, secure contact — not force.


Sublimation Recap

  • Always use high-polyester materials (or a sublimation coating)
  • Always mirror your design
  • Light-coloured blanks work best
  • Printed designs will look dull until pressed
  • You need consistent heat and pressure
  • Finished items will be hot — be careful!
  • Look up specific time and temperature settings for the brand of sublimation ink you’re using
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